The Birth of We Wander France
A 50th birthday, a week of solo walking, and a life-changing idea
I had already been solo traveling in France for quite some time as the monumental 50th birthday loomed on the horizon. So there was no question that I would celebrate the milestone in France. However, my birthday is August 3rd, and something to know about France? August is the worst month to visit in my opinion. One, it’s HOT and France doesn’t care for A/C like Americans do. Two, almost all of France takes the month off to vacation. Either everywhere is packed with people or the shops are closed, or both.
As I thought about celebrating in France, what exactly was that going to look like? I went for what brings me the greatest joy, other than France. The answer is hiking. Not trekking up a mountain with walking poles, but nice gentle walking in the countryside. I like moving my body and staying active. Then came the question of how I was going to make it happen. Like many people, I turned to what company could make this happen. I wasn’t quite self-assured at this point. That happens AFTER the 50th birthday. If anyone under 50 is reading this, look forward to your 50th! Don’t dread it like society tells you to. The 50th is the time to get excited about giving two shits for what everyone else thinks. This is a joyful time!
As I perused the offerings online, I settled on inn-to-inn self-guided walking tours. Because I’m an introvert and hadn’t turned 50 yet. See? I wasn’t thinking I could just do it myself. That would be ballsy, and I wasn’t quite there. I looked at the regions in France for these tours and settled on one in particular offered in SW France. I had been near the area, but I hadn’t been to the mentioned villages on the walking tour.
Some things jumped out at me right away that I didn’t like. Only staying in one location per night — that’s a lot of moving and living out of a suitcase. Also, what were the lodgings going to be like? I like knowing in advance where I’m going to stay. I want to have some control over that. Also, so I hike all day and arrive at some type of lodging. What if I finish the day early? Then I would be stuck there? I really like to wander around. What about food? Where’s that going to be? The questions began to pile up. The icing on the birthday cake is that no one at the company was returning my emails. No names mentioned — it was post-Covid travel, I’m sure they were slammed. But I began to think differently…
I pieced together an itinerary myself that would have me stay at three different locations similar to the villages mentioned on the not-taken tour. I would figure out where to hike when I got there, somehow. And then? I got Covid and I had to cancel my entire trip. I was bereft. All but one of the lodgings were no longer available booking it a month later. I almost begged to stay at the last lodging. The owner was turning it into a long-term rental. He said if I agreed to stay a week, he would agree. That’s how I ended up staying in Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne for my birthday hiking week. A true twist of fate.
When I arrived in the bucolic Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne, which is in the Corrèze department, the first thing I did was go to the tourist office to find places to hike. They gave me a place to look online, choose which hikes I was interested in, return to the office, and they would print them off for me for .50 euro each. I took the rest of the day to look at hikes.
The thing about France is that it’s VERY hiker-friendly. There isn’t anywhere in the country that doesn’t have a marked hiking trail nearby. I was astounded by the choices. I didn’t want anything too far. I didn’t want to kill myself; I wanted to have fun. That narrowed down the choices. I looked for hikes in the 4–10 mile range. I didn’t want to hike all day. I wanted to hike for half the day, eat a wonderful meal out at a local restaurant, and then spend the rest of the time wandering all of the nearby villages in my rental car.
The next morning, after a visit to the boulangerie for my favorite pain au chocolat, I returned to the Office de Tourisme. She printed off my chosen hikes and wished me bonne journée. I felt empowered. I was 50 now. See how that works? It’s like magic.
My first hike took me up into the forest-covered hills above town. I wanted to stick close to my lodging by walking out my front door and returning the same way. It was a dream come true, and one that I had created all by myself. The sun was shining, and I felt like I’ve never been happier. The path was some road walking and some trails. I preferred the roads so I could pass by homes. It was perfect.
I walked past an old stone home with laundry drying on the line. The line was full of what I would call a house shirt for an older woman. So, presumably, an older woman who lived alone lived there. I was fascinated to have this feet-on-the-ground perspective. It’s exactly what I wanted — a little peek into French farmhouse living
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When I arrived at what felt like the top, I could see the town below from where I started. I sat down for a bit to think about life. Where I’ve been, where I’m going. The 50th birthday is the perfect time for thoughts like that. I wondered if I could make this the life somehow. Could I combine all of my favorite things into one?
Well hell yes I can! Follow along for more, book a trip with me at wewanderfrance.com, hit the heart at the beginning of the post to let me know you were here, or leave a comment if you’d like. There are a lot more stories to share. Change your life, come to France with me, and find yourself off the beaten path. It works!
By: Meghan Honert
Also on: SOLOTRAVELER
What a touch of Fate! Yep. You’ve managed to walk into the dream. After 50 -maybe it’s hormonal- we gals just seem to refocus on what makes us happy. And the cherry? No flying gnat poop what others think. sigh where was all this in the years earlier?
What a perfect celebration! We have taken so many random hikes in Spain. We just park and follow a trail to whatever amazing places it goes to!